Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Big Doings in the Neighborhood

This morning - of Miercoles Santo (Holy Wed.) - there was suddenly a commotion in the street above my house: the large things they whirl over their heads that make a grating sound, dirge-like sounds from the trumpets and saxophones and the thump of the big two-headed drum: a procession! I left my weeding to go out in the street in the t-shirt I wore to bed plus decent pants...(no bra, hair uncombed)...just to see what was up and ended up sitting there for two hours..
A family just down the street who carry two of the oldest names here - Quiacain and Chavajay - were evidently hosting this event, and had a plastic tarp spread over their small garden.
The procession arrived very slowly--while I and my new pup and several neighbors sat on the sidelines to watch--the noise-makers, the band and drum, and probably 40-50 men in straw ten-gallon hats (a few wearing traditional embroidered pantalones) accompanying an older woman in a bridal-like veil, who carried a swinging incense-burner, and behind them probably 50 women with their traditional checkered shawls and behind them a motley crew of hangers-on, children, more men.
They all went inside the garden and sat. Various men and a few women made some sort of speech or prayer, in Tz'utujil, and the large audience rumbled their replies....a sound reminiscent of the ocean.
Eventually the family started dishing out "atol" (a corn drink, served in an embellished coconut shell) to the people in the garden, and then emerged with these round-bottomed vessels to serve people in the calle, even us. The drink is fairly thick, salt-less, sugar-less, with spices of anise (which grows all around here) and a slight picante bite. Many people came to get the drinks. They must have served at least 150 people.
Evidently the man of this family is currently in charge of the "Cofradia de Santa Cruz," one of the many cofradias or Catholic brotherhoods in the pueblo. So he pays for much of this, but all members of the cofradia also help with money outlay, setup of the scene, and cookingof the atol.
More praying and eventually they came out with the canastas of fruit and veggies that I had heard would end the hour-long event....but wow!....30 women bearing plastic baskets on their heads full of mostly plantains but other fruits as well , then 50 men bearing the same (tho because of the cowboy hats and because they're men, they carry them on the right shoulder)....and then 30-40 more men each carrying a large pod produced by a plant that I think grows on the coast....it looks rather like two primative canoes glued together, face to face....with long prows...about 6' long. I have seen them before in Antigua, and have always been fascinated with the pod - it is used in many ways in the alfombras (ceremonial carpets constructed in the streets for the processions of Semana Santa, including the cross-carrying Jesus to pass through)....the cascara itself cut and used as a "vase" for flowers, the long creme-colored branches inside used whole, or just the tips with their little creme-colored seeds or these seeds separated from the branches and piled together in shapes and designs along with all the other forms of fruits and vegetables to create these amazing carpets. (see photo attached to older post on Semana Santa.)
I don't know where these pods were headed---tomorrow night is when they make these beautiful alfombras all night long. I am hoping to find someone I know making one so I can take part for the first time. But I know the many canastas of fruit were headed to decorate the stanchions they erect over the way of the procession.
As these activities gather together toward Friday - Viernes de la cruxificion - (for instance my painter friend and his group have for weeks been painting the first "anda" or "float"--except that it is carried by hand, or shoulder.) that will be in the procession, one can't help but get caught up in the wonder of it (much as I hate some things that the Catholic Church represents.)
It's truly beautiful and there is testimonial to wonder and faith.

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